A guide to Zermatt and the Matterhorn Paradise
February 15, 2018
Zermatt is one of the most prestigious ski resorts in the Alps and it truly offers something for everyone. Stunningly beautiful with chocolate-box style ultra-luxurious chalets, traditional Swiss charm and some of the best piste-side restaurants in the Alps alongside the highest lift-accessed skiing in the Alps (3,899m), this world-class ski resort sitting on the Swiss-Italian border is incredible. From bloody mary soup at Chez Vrony to welcoming in the early hours at Gee’s and Cuckoo Club here’s our how-to on making the best of all that Zermatt offers.
Skiing:
Zermatt is part of the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise ski area which is made up of Zermatt on the Swiss side and Cervinia on the Italian side, it’s a highly varied ski area with long wide open pistes from the Plateau Rosa down to Cervinia or Valtourneche on the Italian side and tighter more technical runs on the Swiss side. Zermatt’s offerings are split into three distinct regions of the domain (Sunnegga, Gornergrat and the Klein Matterhorn areas) basking in the might of the Matterhorn whilst Cervinia offers sweeping red and blue runs to enjoy.
Sunnegga:
The Sunnegga side, as might be apparent from the name, is Zermatt’s sunniest part of the ski area. Accessed via funicular which is found about five minutes walk from the centre of Zermatt, Sunnegga is home to the Wolli Park where beginners and children will find their ski legs whilst parents and more experiences skiers can enjoy a range of runs winding through the trees that are reminiscent of the magic of Narnia. With some of Zermatt’s best restaurants complete with sun terraces for basking in the afternoon sun, Sunnegga is ideal for those who enjoy a morning’s skiing followed by a long lunch and quick ski back down to resort at the end of the day.
Gornergrat:
The Gornergrat railway offers a picturesque start to your day’s skiing, winding up from the centre of town through the wooded hillside to the Gornergrat peak, it offers some wonderful skiing and also the perfect opportunity for non-skiers. Non-skiers can enjoy the journey (approximately 20 minutes) up the mountain, take in the mesmerising scenery with Matterhorn views and wander around this winter wonderland. Skiers can hone their skills and enjoy a range of fantastic runs. For those looking to head off-piste (we always advise using avalanche safety equipment and hiring a guide) there’s plenty of lift accessible terrain at relatively gentle gradients to enjoy. When it’s time for a break, enjoy a coffee at Igludorf and watch as skiers and snowboarders hit the airbag honing their aerial skills.
Klein Matterhorn:
The Klein Matterhorn side of the ski area offers more technical and advanced skiing than the likes of the Sunnegga area, set against the backdrop of the Matterhorn. The Klein Matterhorn runs from near to the centre of the town via Furi and Schwarzsee to 2,939m and Trockener Steg from which you can head up and over into Italy, or ski right into the heart of resort via the vibrant après ski bar; Hennu Stall. Alternatively test your skills at the extensive snowpark. Zermatt can be a little disjointed to get from one area to the next although skiing down to Furi means that you can switch to the Gornergrat side of the ski area and finish over in Sunnegga on a sun terrace.
Cervinia:
As mentioned Cervinia is a different kettle of fish to Zermatt, the best skiing can be found heading close to the top of the ski area and enjoying the long wide runs all the way down to Cervinia or Valtourneche. For the average skier these runs offer around 20 minutes of continuous skiing, complete with leg-burn and thrilling rolling terrain. For those who like an adrenaline rush, the park on the Cervinia side of the ski area is also superb.
After a morning of skiing and testing your legs, the black run found in the shadow of the Matterhorn is a good option for the more advanced skiers in your party and the Italian lunch options offer a wallet-friendly alternative to Zermatt. Whatever you opt for on the Italian side you can expect inexpensive prosecco, Italian-alpine dining of a superb standard and warm hospitality. A personal favourite is heading just off from the piste on red run 1 before Valtourneche where you will find a working farm with set-menu for about €15, with homemade cheese, butter, cured meats and almost every aspect of your meal being farm-to-table, a rustic experience complete with ski-doo drag back to the piste after your meal!
Just watch that you leave plenty of time to get back to the Swiss side if you’re staying in Zermatt – if you set off from the bottom of Cervinia much past three in the afternoon, things could be cut too fine! If you miss the last lifts back to Zermatt it’s an expensive and long journey back round to Zermatt – there’s no short-cuts – it often could be less expensive to stay the night on the Italian side and ski your way back over in the morning!
The Village:
Zermatt is a town first and foremost that developed over time into a world-class ski resort so has an array of facilities to enjoy. It’s relatively flat as it sits in the valley carved by glacial movement many years ago, although the Winkelmatten area is slightly uphill. It takes around 25 minutes to walk from one end to the other, but for getting around even in this car-free resort there are electric taxis (about 12-15CHF per journey) and the free ski buses are regular and efficient.
The centre of Zermatt is totally charming, the picture of alpine beauty, it’s an authentic town (albeit with a McDonald’s on the high street) with cobbled streets, boutique shops and picturesque scenery. Split into three main areas, Unterematten is the Sunnegga side with funicular lift access and close to the centre of town, Dorf (translates as town in English) and Oberdorf are the centre of resort with beautiful church, climbers cemetery and excellent facilities. Winkelmatten is found at the top of the resort, sometimes referenced as the ‘Beverley Hills’ of Zermatt, this is where you’ll find ski-in/ski-out accommodation (note that the ski-in/out can be a little testing/imaginative at times,) and some of the best chalets in resort such as the supremely luxurious Chalet White Pearl with cinema room, swimming pool, wellness area, plunge pool and impeccable food and service.
Après ski:
The Swiss definitely offer a different form of après ski to the likes of La Folie Douce over in France, and whilst Zermatt attracts a different crowd and has a different ambience to many resorts, it has plenty to offer for those seeking a warming glühwein and some table thumping.
PapperlaPub is found about five minutes from the centre of town and is a boisterous pub complete with live music, heated terrace and plenty of jagermeister, ideal for a few lively hours of fun post-ski.
If you would rather stay on the mountain then the go-to is Hennu Stall which is situated just a short ski away from the bottom of the Klein Matterhorn Express lift. Think EuroPop, beer swilling and table dancing, this is Zermatt’s answer to the likes of St. Anton’s Mooserwirt. Kicking off from around 3pm every day, Hennu Stall is perhaps the liveliest of Zermatt’s après ski bars.
If carrying skis and walking in ski boots is not your cup of tea then the Sunnegga side of Zermatt offers Cervo Puro which is found at the bottom of the home run before the pedestrian lift down to resort height. A large sun terrace, acoustic music and wonderful cocktails offer a more relaxed form of après ski. SnowBoat is found just a minute’s walk away from the bottom of the Sunnega lift and is a busy bar with an enticing drinks list, delicious bar snacks and a vibrant ambience to enjoy.
If you would rather drop off your skis and put on some normal shoes and clothes then right in the heart of resort you can head to the Post Complex where Brown Cow offers the closest thing to an English-style pub with jugs of beer and bar snacks and a good buzzing atmosphere. Gees and Cuckoo Club is almost opposite the Brown Cow and offers espresso martini fuelled après ski normally accompanied with live music which becomes increasingly more energetic as the afternoon progresses.
Nightlife:
For those who haven’t quite had their fill through Zermatt’s lively (or more tranquil) après ski, there are plenty of options to keep the most discerning of party-goers entertained into the early hours.
Papperlapub carries on from where après ski left off until around midnight each day, from there you can head downstairs to the Schneewittli Club, this is where DJs will ensure that you enjoy yourself a little too much and might lead to a late start to your next morning’s skiing!
Gees and Cuckoo Club offers much the same to the PapperlaPub/Schneewittli combination in that you start off upstairs, albeit this time likely with a cocktail or two as opposed to beer and jagermeister, and then head downstairs to take the partying into the early hours.
Hotel Post consists of the aforementioned Brown Cow pub, but also Broken Bar, Pink and the Loft, with five bars and clubs on offer whether it’s live music or 25+ clubbing that you seek, there’s plenty to entertain here.
Dining out:
Zermatt has some of the highest numbers and highest quality restaurants of anywhere in the Alps, from Mediterranean-style michelin star Capri to home-reared meats at Les Marmottes, there is plenty to choose from! Take a look at our top picks of where of where to eat in Zermatt here.
What is there for non-skiers:
For non-skiers Zermatt is one of the best ski resorts there is, many holiday-makers will happily spend a week in Zermatt being totally entertained without feeling the need to step into ski bindings and hurtle down a mountain. Whether it’s grandparents accompanying a family holiday or if you have those who aren’t keen alpinists in your party, Zermatt is absolutely ideal.
In the centre of resort next to one another you can find the picturesque central church, Climbers Cemetery with plaques and dedications to those lost attempting to reach the summit of the Matterhorn and also the Matterhorn Museum which tells of the history of the majestic mountain.
The Gorner Gorge is a wonderful attraction in spring for those who enjoy wonderful walking trails, complete with waterfall vistas, dramatic rock formations and also outdoor activities including high ropes if you are that way inclined.
If the non-skiers would rather enjoy the mountain air and take in the snowy peaks then the Gornergrat Railway takes pedestrians up to nearly 3,000m altitude where they can walk around the stunning scenery of the Matterhorn Paradise complete with coffee stop on the mountain.
There is of course the ‘standard’ range of non-skier activities that most resorts also offer with the wonderful boutique shops to explore, a collection of coffee shops and bakeries to experience and the likes of ice-skating and curling situated in the centre of resort.
Does this inspire you?
Hopefully I’ve helped to illustrate just some of what Zermatt can offer, in my opinion it’s the perfect resort for all but timid improver skiers, for beginners there’s the Walli area, but finding the right slopes to progress to from there can be a little difficult. I love to discuss all things Zermatt, so if you do have any questions or you’ve been enticed into trying Zermatt as your next ski destination, do get in touch, I’d love to talk through your requirements further and find you the perfect ski trip!