A locals guide to St. Anton
February 15, 2019
St. Anton is a resort that needs no introduction. Rapidly rising to the heights of one of the most desirable resorts in the world over the past few years, it rubs shoulders with the likes of Val d’Isère and Verbier for very good reason.
Situated at 1,304 metres altitude, some might say a little low by comparison to the purpose built high-altitude French resorts, yet within the Arlberg ski area the nearby Warth and Schröcken frequently take the alpine crown of snowiest resorts in the Alps. Just an hour and a half from Innsbruck airport and a touch further from Friedrichshafen, a short transfer combined with direct train access to the centre of resort makes for a wonderful transfer when compared with the twisting turns of France’s Savoie region.
With reliable snowfall, a short-transfer and Austrian charm, St. Anton also offers some of the best skiing in the world, home to the largest continuous ski area in Austria with a claimed 305 kilometres of on-piste slopes and 200 kilometres of itinerary route off-piste slopes, with modern lift systems and relatively short queues even on a powder day.
And the après ski, in my opinion it’s the best in the world. There’s none of the shutting up shop at 5pm and calling it bedtime that France goes in for, this is full-blown beer swinging, table-thumping, disco-beat dancing until 8pm, just in time for dinner back at the chalet! After a gourmet dining experience in the comfort of your own home away from home, wherever you are staying it’s an easy stroll into town to sample the varied nightlife, whether that’s the intimacy of Pub 37, so called because that’s its capacity, or live music and a cocktail at Murrmel Bar.
St. Anton has a whole lot going for it and whilst it’s not the most family-focussed resort or the best for beginner skiers, for those seeking the charm of the Austrian Alps, world-class skiing, après ski and picturesque alpine vistas, St. Anton provides in abundance.
Skiing:
Nasserein (beginners)
Whilst St. Anton isn’t set-up as the best resort for beginners or timid intermediates that isn’t to say that they won’t enjoy themselves with some good beginner areas. The Nasserein area is home to the nursery slopes with drag lifts and gentle declines, perfect for those first few days on skis (or snowboard). Higher up the mountain, the Nasserein bubble goes directly to the Gampen lift station where there are more beginner drag lift serviced slopes. Piste number 31, a blue run, offers a Narnia-esque journey through the trees and is a good option for those looking to progress from the nursery slopes.
Rendl
On the opposite side of St. Anton across town you will find the Rendl gondola which leads up to the Rendl side of St. Anton. It is here that you can find ‘Rendl Beach’ the perfect spot for catching some warming rays in March and April time, with deckchairs adorning the slopes above the snowpark, watch as locals flip, spin and grab their way through the kickers, accompanied by an aperol spritz.
Galzig
For those with youthful knees, the Kandahar black run is the ideal test, starting close to the top of the Galzig gondola, you can expect mogul after mogul across step black terrain in which to test your skills before joining the home-run blue piste, or take the Zammermoosbahn lift back to the top.
Schindler, Lech and Zurs
Alternatively if you want to experience the best that the Arlberg offers then from the top of the Galzig gondola head across to the Schindlerspitze with long sweeping red and blue runs joining to make for one of the most enjoyable pistes in St. Anton. You’ll find the Flexenbahn at the bottom which you can take over to Zurs and onto Lech to experience a different type of skiing from St. Anton. Lech and Zurs typically offer wider more open, more gentle pistes complete with wonderful lunch stops and gorgeous vistas.
Off-piste
When the snow starts falling in St. Anton the terrain turns into an off-piste aficionados dream. Whilst dropping off the back of Kappl towards Zammermoosbahn or the Nasserein trees is most easily accessible from resort, a journey to Stuben gives rise to an array of off-piste opportunities suitable for the most discerning of connoisseurs. If you do want to find some fresh tracks and venture off-piste we would recommend only doing so with the appropriate safety equipment and to pre-book a guide through the fantastic Piste2Powder in St. Anton who know all things relating to safety, the best lines to hit and most importantly about the stability of the snowpack.
The Village:
The village of St. Anton was a rural Austrian idyll that developed into a world-class ski resort, there’s not a whiff of high-rise apartments in sight, the centre is traditional and charming. Split into three distinct areas, wherever you stay it’s easy to get around thanks to a well-serviced bus route, readily available and affordable taxis and also plenty of properties which come complete with drivers. From the centre of town you can typically be back to your chalet, even at the extremity of the village, within about 15 minutes by foot.
Dorf
Dorf, or the centre of St. Anton is the charming focal hub, where you’ll find the Galzig, Gampen and Rendl lifts to easily access all that the ski area offers. With a range of high-quality hotels, enticing ski shops like Jennewein and excellent cafés like Galzig BistroBar, it’s a brilliant place for non-skiers to relax and enjoy the humm of the resort.
Nasserein
Nasserein is found on the right-hand side of resort and home to the aforementioned nursery slopes, served by its own gondola and ski shops and with piste-side bars such as FangBar and nightlife available at Tom Dooley’s and Keller bar. There are a good selection of chalets and accommodation options found in the Nasserein area and it’s also where you’ll find the vast majority of the ski-in/ski-out chalets in resort (they are a little few and far between).
Gastig/Oberdorf
To the left-hand side of resort is the Gastig/Oberdorf area, set upon the hillside, it’s a relatively easy walk down into town but equipped with skis and boots on the way back you are best taking the regularly running bus service. This is an area full of accommodation and a choice of chalets however you are about 10 minutes walk from the resort centre and ski lifts.
Après ski and nightlife:
As I previously mentioned, St. Anton offers world-class après ski to rival its French equivalents admirably and the nightlife isn’t too shabby either. To find out more about the après ski and nightlife offerings of St. Anton, click here to read our guide on all there is to experience.
Dining out:
Whilst many believe that the catered chalet experience epitomises a ski holiday, there are plenty of delights in store for dining out on the chef’s night off in St. Anton. Some of our properties are available on a bed and breakfast or self-catered basis, if this sounds like something that might suit you better, just get in touch to discuss these options further.
There are a host of restaurants to choose from in St. Anton catering to every whim, from the authentic Thai cuisine found at Skiing Buddha to the fine dining experiences at The Museum (famously where the exterior chalet shots from Chalet Girl were filmed). Below I’ve listed just a few options to experience whilst on holiday in the Arlberg.
Bodega
Bodega can be found right in the heart of resort about halfway up the main pedestrianised street. Whilst you can’t book a table and the queues can be a bit daunting mid-week, when most guests have their chalet night off to dine out, if the queue isn’t too long and you manage to get a table it’s a great spot to while away an evening. Serving an array of authentic tapas, reasonably priced plates of delicious Spanish cuisine accompanied by a good variety of wines mean that Bodega is popular for very good reason.
Pomodoro’s
Scotty’s Bar offers cheap and cheerful pizza, but if you want a rustic pizza and a slightly more relaxed environment more akin to a restaurant, then I would suggest making your way a little further up the main street to Pomodoro’s for an inexpensive but delicious pizza, a perfect post-après ski accompaniment.
Hazienda/M3
Restaurant Hazienda at the M3 hotel is set in the heart of St. Anton and is well established as one of St. Anton’s best restaurants, with a sophisticated dining ambience and and refined menu, it’s a menu with finesse fusing a variety of influences harmoniously, drawing on Tyrolean and Italian cuisine and with nods to an array of alternative culinary influences, expect a wonderful evening with inventive dishes like walnut crusted deer loin steak and Tyrol mountain hay soup with grey cheese, poached and truffled egg and accompaniments.
Hospiz Alm
A restaurant that often sticks in the mind for many is the Hospiz Alm in neighbouring St. Christoph, famed for its slide down to the toilet and huge wine cellar which often with a little twisting of your waiters arm they are happy to show you around. The Hospiz Alm is a popular lunch spot on the mountain but the food is taken to another level in the evenings. Typically Austrian in that it’s a fairly meat heavy affair, however the techniques employed and plating delights and there of course is an expected and excellent wide ranging wine menu.
Mountain Restaurants:
On the mountain there are a range of options to suit most budgets and tastes as many have come to expect when visiting a ski resort. The food generally moves towards Austrian and Tyrolean, as opposed to the fondues of France, many of which are delicious such as Tiroler Gröstl and pork knuckle, a few noteworthy restaurants can be found below:
Hospiz Alm
Hospiz Alm, mentioned above for its evening menu, it is a worthy option in the daytime during which it’s a less expensive and a more stripped back and relaxed affair. Dine inside in the restaurant adorned in typically Austrian decor, or if the sun is out, there is plenty of seating to be found outside at this piste-side location. Take the aforementioned slide down to the toilet and enjoy a range of typically Austrian dishes including veal schnitzel and goulash soup alongside pasta dishes and typical mountain fare, again best accompanied with a bottle of wine from the cellar.
Rodelalm
The Rodelalm sits just above the Nasserein nursery slopes, abou two thirds of the way down from the Gampen side of the ski area, just left off from piste 33 with large sun terrace it’s a perfect spot to bask in the afternoon sun with a long lunch – I would recommend complete with a ‘Hugo’, a deliciously refreshing mix of prosecco, mint, elderflower and soda water. If the weather takes a turn for the worst there’s plenty of space by the fire inside to warm-up. The portions here are typically huge and serve very hearty Austrian fare, the pork knuckle is seen by many as the signature dish and delicious.
Verwallstube
Galzig Verwallstube serves gourmet cuisine at the heady heights of 2,085m, reputedly one of the highest gourmet restaurants in the Alps. Verwallstube is found at the top of the Galzig gondola so perfect for grandparents or non-skiers to meet at lunchtime. With inventive and refined dishes that are also a lighter alternative to many of the local eateries, it’s often a welcome respite that proves a superb lunch spot complete with mesmerising scenery.
Non-ski activities:
St. Anton is a beautiful resort with a charming pedestrianised centre and with many cafés and bars where you can relax for a few hours, but it’s also a resort with plenty to keep skiers and non-skiers entertained.
Arlberg-Well
Arlberg-Well can be found just a couple of minutes from the centre of resort and the slopes, it is perfect for those looking to enjoy an afternoon of relaxation. With swim-in/swim-out indoor and outdoor swimming pools and a range of saunas, steam rooms, sanariams and massages on offer, it’s a treat to visit. There are also fitness facilities and classes for those looking for something a little more active.
ArlRock
The ArlRock centre is perfect for a snowy day when some time off the mountain is needed, with rock climbing, bowling, indoor tennis and squash, it’s a great alternative and option for non-skiers or to keep children busy when having some downtime from skiing.
A day trip to Innsbruck
Innsbruck is a vibrant city nestled amongst the mountains and with the train station found in the centre of St. Anton running regularly to Innsbruck, it’s an easy day out with plenty on offer, with beautiful colourful architecture, cosmopolitan centre and plenty of shopping, it makes for a super break from resort.
Lech
Lech is not just reserved for the skiers, the bus from St. Anton takes approximately 30 minutes to reach Lech and offers a change in scenery and ambience, with an air of sophistication and some great restaurants and bars to enjoy, it’s worth a daytrip even for the non-skiers.
Rodelling
Or tobogganing to you and I, the Rodel track in St. Anton runs from the top of the Gampen lift down to the Nasserein bubble. Wind through the snow-topped trees racing friends and family down and enjoy the long run and the thrill of the traditional Rodel. Typically twice a week you can enjoy doing this in the evening which is brilliant when paired with a stop off for dinner at the Rodelalm (see above).
Valluga Viewing Point
Take the Galzig gondola, followed by the Valluga Gondola and the Valluga II lift up to the heights of 2,811m and enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and take an obligatory photo at the top of the Arlberg.
St. Anton is a resort that definitely has to be experienced to be believed, whilst reading about it can equip you to make the most of your time there, if you haven’t been yet, or want to go back, why wait, St. Anton doesn’t wait for anyone!